04
Jun 26

The Cape of Good Hope

We made it down to the southwestern most point of the continent of Africa. Made it, like it was some risky venture. We were in a minivan, with air conditioning and seat belts. The driver wore a microphone to talk to everyone. We dared the dangers of the road, and thanks to our man, his hands safely on the wheel at 10 and 2, we have arrived.

We have arrived, here.

There are seals and other critters in that photo. I also took a video, but I’ll need to re-voice it, because you can’t hear the narration over the wind. Have I mentioned that it is breezy? Stiff, constant winds. Also, it is cool. Sometimes warm. It’s a wacky weather day. Glad I went shopping for an extra jacket. I wound up taking it off partway through the day. But I needed it during the other parts of the day. Anyway, that video, I’ll get to it next week probably. This is what we saw before lunch.

Just off to the right of this photo there’s another sign that helpfully suggests you’re at the southwestern point of the continent. People crowd around the sign. They all wait patiently for their photographs. Some of them are surely composed well. Statistically, some will be poor, and laughed at later. Everyone’s hair is a mess. Everyone is smiling. No one is pedantic enough to point out that there is juuuuuuust a bit more land to the south and west of the sign, so teeeeechnically … no one pointed that out. I was thinking it. (About 100 feet to the south, 250 to the west, 680 feet to the point, which makes the photographic backdrop, about 2 kilometers to the point that puts you in False Bay and about 150 linear kilometers from the actual southern tip of Africa, just outside of L’agulhas which is, itself, about 34 miles, or 54 kilometers south of the latitude of where these photos were taken. Sometimes it is good to stay quiet.) Anyway, that other braggadocios sign is just out of the range of this shot.

We took the hike.

My lovely bride went ahead of me so I could take these photos of her disappearing.

Going …

Gone …

She walks faster than me, and she hikes maybe a smidge faster, too. And by the time I got up there she’d disappea — oh, found her!

Yes, we are cute. These views are wonderful.

It’s an easy hike if you don’t mind uneven terrain. There are stairs in some places and handrails and decking where you need them. You are justly rewarded for the effort.

This is looking back to the east, away from whence we came. And you have to look back from time to time because, I mean, come on.

We’re walking toward that taller point up there. It’s one trail, our guide said. Can’t get lost, he said.

We did not get lost.

We did, however, get distracted.

And there’s some beach down there which, since this is part of a nature preserve, has been mercifully undeveloped. But you know someone is tempted. It’s a 20-minute walk down, and when you get down there you’re surrounded by 650-feet cliff faces. It’s you, the waves, the baboons, the seagulls, and the occasional surfer in the right season.

I invite you to enjoy this closer look, with this panorama I shot. Click to embiggen.

We had lunch at Two Oceans Restaurant, and you will, too, if you find yourself there. There are two gift shops and one restaurant. And while cleverly named, it is just that. The second ocean is some 90 miles away from here. The view of one ocean will have to tide you over.

We sat out on the patio because other people felt the need to sit inside for some reason. The food was good, the weather turned perfect and we were now on the leeward side of the hill.

I asked our waiter how long he’d worked there. He said four years. I asked him if he ever had a bad day or got tired of this view. He said never. Said he brings his children there sometimes. I asked him if the view was enough to make up for bad customers. He said, “Absolutely.”

Some people just have it figured out.

This is a panoramic view of our lunch spot. Click to embiggen.

And while it wasn’t the point of this part of the day, I managed to get enough other photos to fill four months of the front page of the website. You’ll see one of these views again next month. It’ll be great. This, all of this, was great.

But, first we had to hope back in our van and go to the planned highlight of the day.


04
Jun 26

Taking a road trip

This is looking like another three-post day. We covered a lot of ground on our day’s adventures, simply too much to digest all at once. So here’s the first segment.

A little shuttle bus picked us up at the hotel this morning and made a bunch of stops. They were all fine and fun and charming and some of them were quite lovely on their own. Taken as a whole, however, they seemed to be taking away from the main feature of the day. But you don’t know that until you know that. Anyway, a few of the things we saw early in the day.

Our first stop was at Bo-Kaap, in Cape Town. This is the old Malay Quarter, formerly racially segregated. It is, today, a multicultural neighborhood, noted for hits brightly colored homes and cobblestone streets, where some 57 percent of the residents are Muslim. It is being gentrified, which is changing the character of the place, but it still maintains the largest concentration of pre-1850 architecture in South Africa.

In 1760 a man started buying up the land in this area and built small homes on it that he leased to his slaves. The indigenous peoples resisted the Dutch, so they brought in Malaysians, Indonesians, and other parts of the continent, which is how it got its nickname. Into the 19th century, more housing was thrown up for a growing population of tradesmen, craftsmen, and artisans. Political exiles moved in. At sometime after emancipation, the story goes, the bright paints were put on the walls as a proud expression of freedom. (There seems to be some debate about this part of the story.)

Apartheid forced some people and communities out of the quarter, which also shrank the footprint. In the 1940s some preservation began, with 15 houses restored, and in 1966 part of Bo-Kaap was designated as a National Monument and a few dozen more houses and streets were restored.

Over-tourism is surely a problem here. We were there for about 15 minutes and you could get a sense of that.

These are the Twelve Apostles, part of the Table Mountain complex overlooking Camps Bay in Cape Town. The mountain range stretches almost four miles, but there are actually 18 peaks, averaging about about 2,460 feet. Also, right here on this bay, on this beautiful sunny day, was just about the windest wind I have ever experienced not in a storm.

I recorded a video, but you can hear nothing I said. Everyone was taking the photos of leaning into the wind in one direction and then turning around and sitting on the wind in the other direction. I found one weather site which told me we had gusts of 40 miles per hour, but that’s well under what we felt.

Anyway, this was a beautiful area, and our guide just dropped us in and out rather quickly because, despite views like this …

We were just getting warmed up. Also, we went a little inland to warm up, and get out of the wind. There’s a little shopping village there, where we spent about 20 minutes, which was just long enough for you to fantasy about the real estate ads in the windows of the realtor’s office. Looked lovely. Great bakery nearby. A coffeeshop where you can get a free cuppa if you ride up on your horse. Quite little merchants and shops. All whitewashed and quaint.

I need a swing wall now, clearly. With a custom-designed tree painting above it. Where do I go to order such a thing? Also, technically, our new custom designed swings should swing.

Anyway. We also made a quick stop to make some friends with some ostriches. Ostriches are here.

They’re also an important part of the cuisine here. We didn’t tell the ostriches that.

We also didn’t tell the precocious child who is on this tour, who is dominating, hilarious, the conversation with our guide. He could scarcely do his job for entertaining Lilly. I think her mom was pleased to have the attention go somewhere else for the part of a day.

Anyway, I have some other ostrich photos and they will wind up as banners here one day. Silly little inquisitive birds.

For the next part of our day, we’ll be exploring the Cape of Good Hope!


03
Jun 26

At a symposium

We visited the University of the Western Cape, today where my lovely bride delivered some of the opening remarks and chaired a session. She was a co-host, our university logo was on the literature and the International Association for Communication and Sport, where she is the executive director, was one of the co-sponsors.

I wrote a tiny bit of her opening remarks, and listened to the scholars. We heard about research on sports reporters, owned media in Germany, various papers soft power in sporting events (which I talk about a lot in class), Simone Biles’ portrayal in German tabloids, crisis management by sports leagues (which I’ll talk about in a class this fall), memories of Munich, and several others. I took a lot of notes, and photographed several slides which will come in handy in my own thinking and teaching.

Dr. Marion Keim, who is a professor at UWC and has words like “UNESCO” and “Olympic” in her actual title, put this together with IACS to encourage interdisciplinary dialogue on the ways sport shapes societies, both locally and globally. The whole thing was quite nicely done. More people should take part. Maybe a lot of people watched on the livestream.

The symposium was held in the Western Cape’s Public Health building, which had some wonderful art on display.

These are papier mache bowls made by women from Wola Nani, which is Xhosa for “we embrace and develop one another. This is a non-profit program bringing relief to the HIV crisis in the Western Cape. It focuses on women and children, builds skills, personal coping strategies and a revenue stream. Wola Nani crafts became a self-help program to achieve better qualities of life.

These are papier mache place mats from Wola Nani.

The sign says this is from the top section is by Johanna Chauke and the artist that created the bottom section is Selinah Skhosana. This is an embroidery. This is part of a project called Mapula, which means “mother of rain.” There are more than 80 needleworkers making their living through the Mapula project.

They do custom works. I wonder if I could get some embroidery done like those beautiful roller and jacana birds I saw in the Kruger.

These are Mbenge, woven lids for clay beer pots. They are made from llal palm and natural dyes from Zululand. The matching baskets, not pictured were made in Zimbabwe.

These also had some wall installations without signs.

After a day of presentations and networking and some delicious catering, it was time to head back across town. And I guess they just have amazing sunsets here every day. This is two in a row, anyway.

We caught a ride with one of the local scholars. It was the driver and one of their students in the front seat. Three Americans in the backseat and, somehow, none of us died. But I found myself thinking, “After we crash, and we find out that everyone is OK, this is going to be a hilarious story. And we’ll have a nice view while we wait for the police to show up.”

But we did not crash. Everyone was safe. It was still hilarious (I am omitting details in the interest of brevity). And we still had great views.

We went to a mall tonight, because I needed a jacket, because the winter is rolling in here, and I may need a jacket tomorrow. It’s hard to pack adequately for a long trip as the seasons change. The forecasts I saw a week or more ago aren’t what we’re seeing for tomorrow. Plus, we’re going to see penguins!


02
Jun 26

And, now, down to Cape Town

Although our safari is, sadly, complete, our journey continues. Our guide, Simon, drove us to Nelspruit Airport. Along the way, when the others were sleeping, he asked us about some controversial American topics. He’s a playful guy. Inquisitive. Opinionated. But willing to listen and learn. And so we had a nice chat. We got to the airport right on time, he unloaded our luggage, we said our thank yous and goodbyes and gave him a big tip. He’d worked hard and gave us a great trip. There were times when even he, and the other two seasoned safari-goers, were amazed by what we saw. You might imagine, then, how someone who’s never been on a safari felt with this experience. Our new Taiwanese and our new Russian friend, and the two of us — and doesn’t this sound like an Agatha Christie novel now? — were suitably impressed by everything we saw. Simon said it was a terrific trip. He talked it up. But that’s sort of his job, right? Our two new English friends, who have been at this for a long time, endorsed that. So we lucked out. Or one of the four of us were a good luck charm. They all say this: the reason you go back is because every time it is different. But how could it be better?

Anyway, we’re at this airport, Nelspruit, which felt brand new, but has been around for a long time, apparently. It boasts the largest thatch roof in all of Africa. (If I’d known that at the time … ) It’s relatively small, as an airport. I asked the ticket agent where the gates where, she said “Around the corner.” And they were.

While we waited to be called I visited the restroom. I think about sinks more than anyone not in the sink designing, sink selling or sink cleaning businesses, I’m pretty sure. I have strong opinions about sinks. I do not know why either of these things are the case, but they are. And, yet, it had never occurred to me that you might have a painted sink. I loved these.

Though I’m not sure about the little bump texture feature on this one.

Most importantly, does anyone have any cool sink-shaped stencils?

At Nelspruit you walk outside to your plane. This is always fun, because you don’t get to do it that often. Also, it makes you feel like a rock star. (If only you didn’t have to wait to be called …) And you can see more of the plane, which is reassuring. Yes, all of the outside here. I will now board your miracle conveyance with confidence, trusting now that the mechanics and the pilots know their work, for the plane assembly has passed my critical eye.

Also, check out the livery on the Airlink jets.

This is the second-largest carrier within Africa by number of flights, and third-largest by number of seats. They are also feeling the fuel pinch. So glad we booked this months and months ago.

The thing we were looking forward to on Airlink is that we had heard they serve Krispy Kreme doughnuts on the plane. For some reason, Krispy Kreme is a big deal in Johannesburg — we saw several — and presumably elsewhere, if they’re serving them on the plane. I was looking forward to seeing which recipe they used, and how they tasted at altitude. (Because things taste different at altitude, look it up.)

Sadly, I do not know the answers to these questions. No doughnuts were offered. We had a local sandwich, though. It tasted differently, too. Dry air, cabin pressure, white noise, etc.

I had the window seat, and I enjoyed nice views, but a terrible thought came over me while I was looking outside. Only a few dozen people in the whole world had a chance to see this beautiful moment, and they had to be looking out the window just then to see it.

I’m not sure why that came to mind, or why the thought of it sunk so deeply into me that it went from brain to shoulders to wherever your spirit lives on your person. This plane is up here and no one else is. It has four lines of seat from fore-to-aft. Only the people on the right side, in the window, could see this, and even then only if they weren’t asleep, or distracted.

It didn’t occur to me until later that the people on the port side of the plane had the same circumstance, some incredible view that only a few people could see. And, most frustratingly, one I could never see. That didn’t come to mind until later because I spent most of my flight thinking about my first realization. And then, as we approached Cape Town, me and just a few other people in the whole wide world saw this moment.

And I think maybe this is what it is like to be confronted by chance and mortality. And also choice.

It was an easy flight. We left on time. We arrived on time. We are now down very near the bottom of South Africa. We caught an Uber (avoid the pretend Uber drivers at the airport, visitors are advised). We rode across town to our hotel. Checked-in with minimal difficulty. We had dinner at the hotel restaurant (it was pretty nice and incredibly convenient, what with being just downstairs and all). And now we are getting ready for tomorrow. Big day tomorrow.


02
Jun 26

Our last day on safari at Kruger National Park, part two

We’ve had five wondrous, lucky, inspiring, peaceful, adventuresome, thrilling, relaxing, educational, days in Kruger National Park. This is the last photo post. (But I have so, so many more photos. And videos. We’ll revisit a lot of them over time, I’m sure.) Because it was our last day I was stingy with the camera and took just 197 photos. I’ve waded through them all and selected 35 to share with you today. The previous post has some of those. This is the last of the batch. Before that, let me tell you about Wild Wings Safaris. The Yankee did the booking, but she says they were great via phone and email. Handled all the details. We had the same guide for five days in Kruger National Park. Simon picked us up at a hotel in Johannesburg, he dropped us off at an airport so we could continue our adventures. He was fun, funny, willing to share and take a joke, knowledgeable, and great at spotting all the things you would never see. He was calm and safe. A real pro. He was also our driver and cook. The man can cook. Have you ever had french toast on a kerosene grill before? I have now. He made a lot of local dishes, and everything, aside from the beets, was terrific. And he was full of good cheer. This outfit is so good that the other couple on this safari, English retirees who have been with this group before, made arrangements to do two more safaris back-to-back on this trip. They’ve been taking safaris around the world for 28 years and they are repeat customers. We’ve been charmed and thrilled at every turn. Wild Wings Safaris.

My only complaints are that I am not a better photographer, and I should have brought a longer lens.

Part of what we saw today:

African crocodile (not pictured)
Jacana
Wildebeest
Impala
Stone buck (not pictured)
Elephants
Warthogs
Terrapin
Hippos (not pictured)
Giraffes
Buffalo

Wild Wings Safaris.